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Gucci channels the inner child at Milan men’s fashion week | Fashion

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Gucci closed Milan fashion week with a gothic celebration of childhood.

In front of guests which included Jared Leto, Mark Ronson and Anderson Paak, designer Alessandro Michele mixed classic Gucci elements including loafer shoes, berets and box jackets with Mary Jane school shoes, jeans scuffed with grass stains, pelerine socks pulled up to the calf and lunch boxes.

Riffing off the carefree punk spirit of Richard Hell, the babydoll dresses of Courtney Love and the freedom semaphored by Elvis’s rockabilly hair, the show exploded with energy.

The dark spectre of innocence lost hung around the show: a massive pendulum in the middle of the arena swung menacingly and the models walked around the catwalk to Marilyn Manson’s version of Sweet Dreams.

Gucci designer Alessandro Michele explores themes of masculinity and femininity through his clothes.



Gucci designer Alessandro Michele explores themes of masculinity and femininity through his clothes. Photograph: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci

Explaining the idea for the show, Michele said: “Childhood is a free time, there are fewer labels [and] you can be yourself. When you grow up you are told ‘you can’t do that [because] you’re a boy and you’re going to primary school’.” Michele added that he had sought inspiration for the collection by looking at children’s clothes in markets.

Another source of inspiration was the mentality of Generation Z. “Very young people are aware of what’s going on the world. They embrace change in a way I would find very difficult,” he said, name-checking Billie Eilish and Greta Thunberg.

After years of showing the women and men’s collections together, it was the first time since 2016 that Gucci showed a largely male-only show. Which goes against the trend for many fashion shows to be mixed but also illustrated the designer’s on-going exploration of masculinity through his clothes.

“I think menswear is even more experimental and stranger [than women’s] because men are allowed less,” he told trade magazine WWD. “The stereotype of the man is really very narrow, claustrophobic.”

Gucci show during Milan menswear fashion week on 14 January.



Gucci show during Milan menswear fashion week on 14 January. Photograph: Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci

The press notes for the show, which were presented on lined school notepaper, featured a treatise against toxic masculinity and a plea for a kinder, more feminised maleness. “It’s time to celebrate … a baby man able to do bold and playful somersaults … who wonders in amazement when the world becomes new.”

The show, entitled Rave Like You Are Five, marked the half decade anniversary of the appointment of Michele, who has had a huge influence on menswear, shifting the emphasis towards romantic flourishes and feminised, Maximilian glamour.

Michele has helped Gucci have a bigger cultural impact beyond fashion, influencing pop culture through celebrities like Harry Styles and A$AP Rocky wearing their clothes. It has also become a lightning rod around issues of diversity and representation in fashion. Gucci was widely criticised for selling a blackface jumper and during a show in September a model staged a mental health protest on the catwalk after straightjackets were used in the collection.



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Here’s When You Should Get Rid Of Dress Shirts

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It’s Time to Toss Those Old Dress Shirts

We’ve all been guilty of hanging on to a piece of clothing longer than we probably should. Often times, these items have a very acute emotional significance to us. One of the most common pieces of clothing that most men keep too long are dress shirts.

The undisputed workhorse of your wardrobe, dress shirts, wear out faster than most of our clothes because of the daily stress we put them through. A spring cleaning is not only great to help put away your seasonal wardrobe, but also a time to get rid of old or damaged clothing.

When inspecting your dress shirts, there are multiple aspects which can contribute to over-worked or soiled garments:

1. Dry-Cleaning. The chemicals from dry-cleaning will cause shirts to yellow over time. It also breaks down the fibers in most shirts, which makes them weak and susceptible to tearing.

2. Deodorant. Most deodorants, or those with fragrance and high aluminum content, will yellow the underarms of your shirts. This is the most common and ultimate demise of your everyday dress shirt.

dress shirt disposal

3. Improper Home Laundering.  A lot of men don’t know how to properly launder their own shirts. Your home washer and dryer can be a destructive force on the delicate interfacings and buttons of your dress shirts.

Generally, I like to think of dress shirts like undergarments. Once you see signs of wear, like color fading, stains or rips, it’s time for them to be tossed. While there’s no exact time table for when you should toss your old dress shirts, a general rule of thumb is to inspect them every 3 or 4 wears.

Some shirts can last 6 months, others can last 1-2 years. A shirts durability can be attributed often times by both the quality of the dress shirt and the amount of times it’s been laundered. Mass produced shirts tend to fail faster than MTM or bespoke shirts. This can often time be due to the quality control of the factory.

dress shirt disposal

Sustained longevity of your dress shirts will vary on how much you care for them. Taking into account the wear and tear of daily life, here are a few tips for keeping your dress shirts going longer:

1. Green Dry Cleaning. Try organic or green dry cleaning or ask your local cleaners if they do a hand laundering. Don’t dry clean? I prefer to launder my dress shirts at home. Start with the most delicate or light setting you can, hang to dry and then steam iron before you’re ready to wear.

2. Switch to natural deodorant. Choose one that’s not acidic or has a ton of fragrance. I like this one. If you don’t sweat a lot, consider not wearing deodorant from time to time.

dress shirt disposal

3. Properly Fitting Shirt. Overtime your body will change. Well fitting shirts will last longer mainly because of the decreased stress on seams and fabric. If it doesn’t fit, let it out or get rid of it. Remember tailored not tight.

4. Wear an undershirt. Undershirts provide a layer of protection from your sweat and deodorant. Not everyone is a fan, but an undershirt can help when it comes to insulation during the winter or in this case saving your custom dress shirt. Brian made a video about undershirts a while back. Try these shirts. They’re thin, have some stretch and won’t break the bank.

5. Pretreat your shirts. You do not want your deodorant or swear to remain on the garment. They can continue to yellow or cause odor to your shirts. Try pre-cleaning spots with things like Oxyclean or at-home methods of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide. Either of those options might be able to help keep your shirts in your rotation longer.

Any tips to keep your dress shirts from wearing out? Let us know.

Stylishly Yours,

Steven D. Elliott
He Spoke Style

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Victoria's Secret Haul! yup, I went back for MORE!

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I went back to Victoria’s Secret. Hi, today I’m sharing my Victoria’s Secret semi-annual sale haul. It’s a lot of perfumes. Also, a little something from Sephora.

Subscribe! It’s free!

Instagram:

There are few reasons why I haven’t shop there in a long time, and here is why I’m returning one year after the VS drama.

Check out my last VS haul:

Shopping at Victoria’s Secret ONE YEAR LATER, $200 GONE!

Love, Marilyn Marie 💗

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‘Project Runway’ Season 18, Episode 7 Recap: F…ashion Yeah!

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Why is it that in most futuristic movies everybody is walking around in earth tone tunics or other minimalist attire? Sure, there’s exceptions but in a lot of interpretations of the future we’re all going to dress like a Nancy Meyers character at a weekend detox retreat in a few years. Truth be told, a lot of us are dressing like that now. I’m not judging, nor am I complaining. Sometimes it’s just easier to throw on a taupe caftan and saunter through your day. But that can’t be every day! You’re telling me we put all this energy into building our present dystopia just to wear Kanye West’s latest runway collection in our dotage? I don’t think so. Where’s the spaceship movie where the captain has hot pink eye shadow and a sequined coat with huge shoulders? Every time she pushes the ship into warp speed the 16 bangles on her arm shake like jingle bells. And a cape! She has a cape! We must reclaim capes from villains, as a gift to the future. This is the dream. If you haven’t guessed already, on this week’s Project Runway we’re talking MAXIMALISM, honey.

The designers are paired with pop artist and all-around good time Ashley Longshore, whose work is bursting with life, ribald wit, and color. Her work is too much in the best way and it pushes the designers to embrace a totally different side of their personalities. I love it! Let’s all do maximalism this year. Let’s all do patterns and sequins and many accessories and—I know I previously forbade this—words on our clothes. To quote Oscar-winner (in my heart) JLo: “Let’s get loud!”

OBSESSED. Each designer is allowed to chose one Ashley Longshore print to incorporate into a design. Each print is just as busy and as vibrant as you’d expect from her work. And, in the spirit of maximalism, they’re given two days to complete the look. But, for a few designers, including front-runner Victoria, too much is still not enough. “I hate prints,” Victoria declares more than once. This vexes me. I mean, I hate eggplant but if I had to eat it for a contest on national television you better believe I’d throw that bad boy into a parmesan quick, fast, and in a hurry. This sort of conflict between the designer and the challenge happens a lot on this show. I understand having an aesthetic, but I’m always confounded when designers seem totally unable to work outside of their comfort zones for a challenge on Project THEE Runway. Like, you can be minimalist at home; you’re on TV and Ashley Longshore wants you to throw some glitter on the runway. So, again to quote two-time Oscar winner JLo (she deserved for Out of Sight), “LET’S GET LOUD!” And while we’re getting loud, let’s get some SUPERLATIVES up in HERE!

Most True Gritt

The contestants gather in Palette at Bergdorf Goodman to meet Ashley; Nancy arrives with a huge coat thrown over her shoulders (I LIVE) and an orange crocheted tam cat with two white triangles popping up in the front. My first thought was that Philly-area resident Nancy was repping the president of Philadelphia: Gritty. That was hugely exciting to me as it is such an absurd choice, particularly for Project Runway, and I was ready to crown her the winner immediately. Upon closer inspection it turns out it was a fox cap and the triangles were ears, not Gritty’s roving eyes that see into your soul. That’s fine, too, I guess.

Least Horticultural

In addition to not caring for prints, Victoria also declares that she hates flowers. I love that Victoria can say things that would, in any other context, make her a Disney villain.

Bravo

Least Censored

Ashley, standing next to Christian and Linda Fargo, the chic fashion director of Bergdorf, drops an F-bomb mere minutes into the the episode. “Is it okay that I said that?” she asks, gloriously too late. Linda, who has covered her ears underneath her perfect silver bob, grimaces and replies “Ashley, I’ve given up a long time ago.” Give them an odd couple reality spinoff RIGHT NOW.

Most Hidden G-Spot

Nancy chooses a print that has an illustration of a pink dildo tucked into it, a detail she doesn’t notice until afterward. We’re doing camouflaged sex toys in 2020, people! She runs with it, creating an oversized coat that has a wine pocket, a phone pocket, and a dildo pocket. I suppose it’s for when you’re on the go but you still want an O. Unfortunately for Nancy, the oversize coat is way too oversize, swallowing the model and putting her in the bottom three this week. Time to pull the wine bottle out of the pocket.

Best Runway Walk

After the first day of work, the designers relax on the deck outside the studio with drinks and tacos courtesy of Ashley. Delvin suggests they compare runway walks. Marquise’s is quite good but Victoria fully serves. This woman can do everything… except maximalism. When it comes to the real runway, she relegates a black and white striped print with big colorful flowers to the pants, making the focal point of her design an all-white top with the same criss-cross/cutout aesthetic of her most successful designs. Nobody is happy with this and it lands her in the bottom for the first time.

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Bravo

Most Asia O’Hara Impressions

This may be a niche reference, but on the season 10 finale of Drag Race Asia O’Hara performed a lip sync during which she opened a box of butterflies and set them a-flutter around the stage. Well, that was the intention at least. However, the butterflies got stage fright and, horrifically, just laid on the ground. This week on PW, Brittany choses a print that features butterflies and decides to cut them out and re-attach them to the garment (an asymmetrical dress with cold shoulders and yellow arm straps) giving them a 3-D effect. This works perfectly and cinches the win for her.

Sergio also goes with butterflies, albeit less successfully. He chooses to create a white cocoon coat and a colorful butterfly-esque dress to symbolize “the struggles transgender people go through in everyday life.” It looks fine; he’s safe.

Best Medical Descriptions

I’m really concerned about Dayoung’s on-going mysterious health issues. Once again, she gets weak and faint during the challenge and the medics are called in. No shade to the medics, who take good care of her, but at this point we need to call in Dr. House to get to the bottom of this. Dayoung tells one medic that she feels like a well or a fountain that has malfunctioning machinery which is the most poetic way of describing a medical crisis. I am adopting this in all future doctor’s visits.

Doctor: What’s wrong?
Me:
I am a flightless bird sailing through time.
Doctor: Okay. Um, do you want a Z-Pack?

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Bravo

Most Puritan

After the judges rip apart Nancy’s coat, they ask her model to take it off, revealing a chic blouse and wide leg pants, which they love. Ashley, especially, loves the pants declaring “The pants flood my basement!” Brandon is fully out of his chair even as he asks “What does flood my basement mean?” Sweet, innocent Brandon.

Most Done-in by Darts

Marquise makes an oversized bomber jacket (so many bomber jackets this season!) that the judges are a little lukewarm about. Then, when they remove the jacket, they discover he’s made a white blouse with awkward darting at the bustline. It’s not a tragedy but at this stage in the competition it is enough to get him sent home. He takes it in stride, however (considering his fierce runway walk, that’s quite a stride). He’s proud of himself for getting this far as a self-taught designer and the judges remind him that he’s going to make it. I agree. And I would also like to remind him that I NEED the denim ensemble he made for last week’s challenge. Should I just DM him my measurements?

Winning Design

Brittany’s butterfly dress, which captures the joyful maximalist spirit of Ashley Longshore’s work.



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